Fish and cheese are two foods that, in Italy, have always been of great ethnogastronomic importance and have for centuries characterized a Mediterranean cuisine that is the envy of the entire world for its variety , simplicity , and freshness . Despite this, the idea of ​​combining these two foods is considered by many to be a gastronomic taboo , as they are believed to be incompatible in recipe creation. But is this really a dogma to be respected, or do they actually go well together?

Origins of the gastronomic "ban"

The history of this unwritten Italian "rule," which makes fish and cheese incompatible in the collective imagination, is very complex and dates back to the early 20th century. Nevertheless, an example of the selflessness of this culinary combination can be found centuries earlier: a certain Archestratus of Gela , a Sicilian citizen of Magna Graecia, in the 4th century BC harshly criticized the Sicilians for their choice to pair cheese and fish. But it was one of the greatest and most influential chefs of the last century, Luigi Carnacina , who decreed that this combination was contradictory .

What did Luigi Carnacini say about this?

In his immense cookbook, " La grande cucina ," published in 1960, it is clear that the chef never considered fish and cheese together. " Fish and cheese are not tolerated, " Carnacina states verbatim. He doesn't provide a detailed explanation, that is, he doesn't explain the reasoning behind this statement; however, it is very likely that his thesis had something to do with personal taste . From then on, thanks to the fame of his publications during the Italian economic boom, this concept of inappropriate pairings took hold, especially in popular culture : anyone who combined these dishes in cooking would therefore have committed a gastronomic abomination.

But what could be the reasons for this thought?

Dan Nosowitz, a world-renowned science journalist, has researched the reasons and theories behind this idea. The first is the notion that these foods are sensorially incompatible, as fish is delicate and cheese is intense and savory , thus masking the flavor of the fish. This idea is completely refutable , as there are several varieties of these products, including less delicate and intense fish (such as sardines and oysters) and more delicate cheeses (such as mozzarella). Another idea is that cheese is a typical inland product while fish is exclusively coastal: a completely unfounded and false notion, as in Piedmont, an inland region, anchovies are a traditional culinary delicacy.

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Ancient gastronomic recipes with fish and cheese

In ancient times, contrary to what one might think, there are many examples of chefs who combined fish and cheese : this combination was the order of the day in Italy, especially in the most ancient centuries.

Regional and traditional uses

Traditionally, in Puglia, Molise, and Abruzzo, the transhumance of sheep flocks across the plains of the Tavoliere delle Puglie and the mountains of Abruzzo led in ancient times to the use of cheeses such as Canestrato pecorino to season all kinds of foods. This is one of the lightest pecorino cheeses in terms of fat, making it an excellent accompaniment to a multitude of dishes. Once this special cheese reached the coast, it was common to combine fish and cheese. Fish broth (often made with the fish head and other scraps that lend it a distinctive flavor) and gratin mussels are just one example of this combination, which is still traditionally used today.

Ancient recipes

Furthermore, there are a myriad of recipes from various Italian chefs that testify to this, from the Enlightenment and Rococo periods to the late 19th century, thanks to the work of the renowned gastronome Pellegrino Artusi. Below are some examples of ancient recipes:

- Anchovies parmigiana (Anchovies with parmesan) , recipe by Vincenzo Corrado, taken from “Il cuoco galante” of 1773;

- Calamari stuffed with fat (Calamari with fat and parmesan), recipe by Vincenzo Corrado, taken from “Il cuoco galante” of 1773;

- Sprightly in matelotta with parmesan (Stewed skate with parmesan) , recipe by Francesco Leonardo, taken from “L'Apicio moderno” of 1790.

- Oysters with Parmesan , recipe by Francesco Leonardo, taken from “L'Apicio moderno” of 1790.

- Capellini with mullet broth (with parmesan), recipe by Emanuele Rossi, taken from “La vera cuciniera genovese” (The true Genoese cook) of 1865.

- Risotto with clams (and parmesan), recipe by Emanuele Rossi, taken from “La vera cuciniera genovese” (The true Genoese cook) of 1865.

- Stuffed scallops (with parmesan), recipe by Pellegrino Artusi, taken from “Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well” of 1891.

- Cod cutlets (with Parmesan), recipe by Pellegrino Artusi, taken from “Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well” (1891).

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Gastronomic recipes with fish and cheese

Over the past 20 years or so, thanks to a desire to experiment in the kitchen, this taboo has been overcome by many Italian chefs, who have proposed new recipes that unrestrainedly combine the two dishes, creating gastronomic delicacies . However, there are still several ancient and popular recipes that combine these two ingredients. Below is a list of regional recipes that are still cooked today:

- Donna Peppina's Fish Gnocchi : a recipe of Sicilian origin, which uses blue fish and Sicilian pecorino cheese to prepare the gnocchi dough.

- Paccheri with stockfish and potatoes on a cheese fondue : a recipe of Neapolitan origin, which combines delicate cod and stockfish with an intense cheese.

- Tuna and cheese meatballs : a recipe made with a 50/50 ratio of each ingredient, very tasty and you can use grated Parmesan or Pecorino in the mixture.

- Breaded turbot fillet with cheese fondue : an excellent dish, which combines cheese with breaded fish, giving it an extra boost of flavor.

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But the real culinary evolution of this food association was brought about by the dishes of the most famous Italian chefs, who therefore elevated it:

- Snapper carpaccio with parmesan sauce and summer truffle , recipe by chef Enrico Zanirato (San Quintino Resort), a bold and balanced recipe that combines cheese, truffle and fish together.

- Rigatoni cacio e pesce , a recipe by chef Corrado Assenza (Caffè Sicilia), which modifies cacio e pepe by using anchovies, mussels, clams, and red mullet with pecorino cheese.

- Conchiglioni stuffed with burrata and sea urchin , a recipe by chef Davide Scabin (Combal.zero), an evolution of his previous recipe in which he blends fish caviar and burrata together.

- Cuttlefish and mozzarella gnocchi with clams , a recipe by chef Rosanna Marziale (Le Colonne), which takes inspiration from Neapolitan tradition by combining three very important elements in a single dish.

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Breaking the taboo

Therefore, this gastronomic pairing is not only possible, but very often gives rise to experimentation, new culinary processes, and highly original dishes, especially if well-balanced and expertly prepared. There are still those who turn up their noses because of this now prevalent popular preconception, but thanks to the newfound social freedom and the gastronomic desire for renewal in recent decades, the taboo of pairing fish and cheese will be short-lived.

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